Manang · Mustang · Dhorpatan

Day by day

Distances are short but times are long. On the Chame–Manang and Beni–Dhorpatan sections plan on 15–20 km/h average. Ride 6 am–3 pm; afternoon wind in Mustang is brutal. Tap any day to expand it.

DAY 0 Arrive Gorakhpur Tue 13 Oct

~100 mStaging day

Arrival and staging. Bikes are already sorted, so tonight is purely admin: top up both tanks, check tyre pressures and chain slack, sort documents into the tank bags (passport, RC, licence, photocopies, photos, and your printed ACAP permits), exchange INR into NPR and split the cash between you. Photograph both bikes from all sides with the odometer visible. Eat early, sleep by 10 pm.
Night: Gorakhpur
Alarms at 4:30 am — you want to be at Sonauli by 7 am, before the queue builds.
DAY 1 Gorakhpur → Narayanghat Wed 14 Oct

~200 km9–10 hrs100 → 200 mHighway, good

Cross at Sonauli/Belahiya early — budget 2–3 hrs for customs, bhansar and third-party insurance. Then Butwal and east along the Mahendra (East–West) Highway through flat Terai to Narayanghat/Bharatpur. Fast, hot, and busy with Dashain traffic. Buy NTC and Ncell SIMs in Butwal. Do not ride after dark.
Night: Narayanghat / Bharatpur
DAY 2 Narayanghat → Besisahar Thu 15 Oct

~105 km4–5 hrs200 → 760 mTarmac, winding

North up the Trishuli gorge to Mugling, then the Prithvi Highway to Dumre and up to Besisahar. Worth a tea stop at Bandipur — a preserved Newari hill town 8 km off the highway above Dumre, and a far nicer break than anything on the main road. Arrive Besisahar by mid-afternoon: fill both tanks and both jerrycans, check your printed ACAP permits are in the tank bags, and ask jeep drivers about the state of the Marsyangdi road.
Night: Besisahar
Mugling–Narayanghat is Nepal's most landslide-prone corridor. Check conditions at Narayanghat before committing.
DAY 3 Besisahar → Chame Fri 16 Oct

~65 km6–7 hrs760 → 2,670 mRough, exposed

The real ride begins. Narrow ledge road above the Marsyangdi with waterfall crossings and blind corners — yield to descending jeeps. ACAP checkpost at Dharapani. This is the Scrambler's hardest day so far; keep momentum and let the XPulse lead through the rocky sections.
Night: Chame
Start Diamox tonight.
DAY 4 Chame → Manang Sat 17 Oct

~30 km3–4 hrs2,670 → 3,540 mRough, sandy

Short but high. Past the Paungda Danda rock face and Upper Pisang. Arrive by lunch, then do nothing — walk gently around the village but do not exert yourself.
Night: Manang
DAY 5 Manang Sun 18 Oct

Acclimatisation3,540 m

Mandatory rest day. Hike to Gangapurna Lake or partway to Ice Lake — climb high, sleep low. Check SpO2 morning and evening. If either of you has a persistent headache, nausea or breathlessness at rest, descend to Chame instead of continuing.
Night: Manang
Do not skip this day.
DAY 6 Manang → Besisahar Mon 19 Oct

~95 km7 hrs3,540 → 760 mRough descent

Retrace the Marsyangdi. Descending is harder on brakes and concentration than climbing — go easy on the front brake on gravel. Rest the bikes at Chame.
Night: Besisahar
DAY 7 Besisahar → Beni Tue 20 Oct

~165 km6–7 hrs760 → 830 mTarmac

West via Dumre to Pokhara, then take the bypass around the city rather than through Lakeside, and carry on via Naudanda to Beni. Beni is the gateway to both Mustang and Dhorpatan. If you want a mechanic or an ATM, Pokhara is your last chance — otherwise ride straight past. Fill everything at Beni.
Night: Beni
DAY 8 Beni → Marpha Wed 21 Oct

~62 km5–6 hrs830 → 2,670 mVery rough

Up the Kali Gandaki gorge — the deepest gorge on earth, with Dhaulagiri and Annapurna on either side. Rocky riverbed sections around Tatopani and Ghasa. Stop at Marpha rather than pushing on to Jomsom: it is 13 km short of Jomsom, sits in the lee of the wind, and is a far better place to spend two evenings. Arrive by early afternoon and walk the village — flagstone lanes, whitewashed Thakali houses, the Nyingma monastery above the rooftops, and apple orchards on the terraces.
Night: Marpha
Be off the road before the afternoon wind.
DAY 9 Marpha → Muktinath & Kagbeni Thu 22 Oct

~75 km round6 hrs2,670 → 3,800 mRough, windy

The high point of the trip. Leave at 6 am — you have 13 km more to cover than from Jomsom, so the early start matters. Through Jomsom (top up fuel here), on to Kagbeni at the Upper Mustang checkpost — you can look up the valley but not ride in — then climb the switchbacks to Muktinath at 3,800 m for the temple and the 108 water spouts. Turn around by 11 am. Back in Marpha, spend the evening on Thakali dal bhat and the local apple brandy — the distillery and the orchards are what the village is known for.
Night: Marpha
Highest point — 3,800 m. Head back before the wind.
DAY 10 Marpha → Burtibang Fri 23 Oct

~140 km8–9 hrs2,670 → 900 mRough then tarmac

Long descent back down the gorge to Beni, then west through Baglung and along the Bhuji Khola to Burtibang. Stop at Baglung to sort the Dhorpatan reserve permit — do not push on without it. Fill both tanks and both jerrycans at Burtibang; this is the last fuel and there is none beyond.
Night: Burtibang
Dhorpatan permit at Baglung. Last fuel at Burtibang.
DAY 11 Burtibang → Dhorpatan Sat 24 Oct

~75 km5–7 hrs900 → 2,900 mThe crux

The hardest day of the trip. Rough jeep track, river crossings, loose rock and steep switchbacks up to the Dhorpatan valley — Nepal's only hunting reserve, a wide glacial meadow with Tibetan settlements. Ride crossings one at a time with the other spotting. Register at the reserve office. Lodges are very basic; the sleeping bag earns its place tonight.
Night: Dhorpatan (basic lodge)
No fuel, patchy signal, no rescue nearby.
DAY 12 Dhorpatan → Baglung Sun 25 Oct

~130 km7–8 hrs2,900 → 900 mThe crux, reversed

Back out the same track to Burtibang, then tarmac to Baglung for a hot shower and a mechanic. If either bike is damaged or the track has deteriorated, stop at Burtibang and use the float day.
Night: Baglung
FLOAT Float day Mon 26 Oct

Spare

A deliberately empty day. Do not plan anything for it. Spend it wherever the trip has already taken it from you — a landslide on the Mugling road, weather closing Muktinath, a broken chain in Manang, or an extra night at Dhorpatan. If you reach this point unused, take a rest day at Baglung or Beni, or ride down to Pokhara for a proper meal and a bike check.
Night: Wherever you need it
Protect this day. It is the only slack in the plan.
DAY 14 Baglung → Bhairahawa Tue 27 Oct

~230 km7–8 hrs900 → 150 mTarmac

Down to the Terai via Beni and the Kaligandaki corridor, or via Pokhara and the Siddhartha Highway — pick whichever is reported clear. Spend leftover NPR; you cannot use it in India. Stage near the border for an early crossing.
Night: Bhairahawa
DAY 15 Bhairahawa → Gorakhpur Wed 28 Oct

~100 km3–4 hrs + border150 → 100 mHighway

Cross back at Sonauli early — close the bhansar before it expires or you will pay a penalty. Home by afternoon.
Night: Home

Riding 13–28 October

You've picked the best two weeks of the year for this route. Post-monsoon means stable weather, settled roads and the clearest mountain views of the season. Three things to plan around:

Dashain Festival crowds

Dashain falls somewhere in the first three weeks of October — confirm the exact 2026 dates before booking anything, as sources disagree and it shifts with the lunar calendar. Assume your trip overlaps it.
The Mahendra Highway on Day 1 and the Mugling corridor on Day 2 will be packed with people travelling home.
Many mechanics, shops and government offices close for several days — including permit counters. This is exactly why ACAP goes online before you leave, and why both bikes must depart home fully sorted.
Book Narayanghat and Besisahar rooms in advance. Manang and Jomsom are trekking-season busy too.
Upside: the villages are festive and welcoming. Expect to be fed.

Weather & cold

Days: pleasant, 15–20 °C in the valleys, 10–15 °C at altitude, mostly clear skies.
Nights: −5 to 5 °C in Manang and Dhorpatan. By late October it's properly cold. The −5 °C sleeping bag and down jacket are essential, not optional.
Rain is unlikely but a late-season western disturbance can drop early snow above 3,500 m — check the forecast before the Muktinath ride.
Daylight ~5:50 am to 5:40 pm and shortening. Plan to be off the bike by 4 pm.

Road conditions

Monsoon damage is usually repaired by early-to-mid October — you're on the right side of that.
The Mugling–Narayanghat corridor (Day 2) is the exception — it is Nepal's most landslide-prone stretch and October is when fresh damage is most likely. Check at Narayanghat; if it's blocked, divert via Pokhara on the Siddhartha Highway.
The Dhorpatan track (Days 11–12) will be dry, which is the single biggest factor in its favour. In September it would be barely rideable.
Kali Gandaki afternoon wind is still very much active. The 6 am start on Day 9 stands.
Water levels in the river crossings will be low and dropping. Good news for the Scrambler.

Sonauli border crossing

Indian side (Sonauli)

Exit formalities at the SSB / customs post. Keep the bike's original RC handy.
No Indian paperwork needed to leave, but note the odometer and take photos of the bike.

Nepal side (Belahiya)

Immigration: Indians don't need a visa or passport, but carry passport or Voter ID (Aadhaar/DL are not accepted as ID proof). Passport is strongly recommended.
Customs / Bhansar: pay the vehicle entry fee, calculated by engine cc and days of stay — so the Scrambler costs more than the XPulse. The permit is issued for a fixed number of days, so declare 16–17 days to leave buffer.
Third-party insurance: mandatory, buy at the border counter, a few hundred rupees.
Carry original RC, valid DL, and 6–8 photocopies of everything plus passport photos.
The bike must be registered in the rider's name — otherwise carry a notarised NOC from the owner.
Get an itemised receipt for every charge and ask to see the official rate card. Unofficial "processing fees" are commonly solicited.

Cross early morning. The post gets slow after 10 am and customs staff take long lunch breaks. Budget 2–3 hours.

Permits

Permit	Where	Cost (SAARC / other)	For
ACAP (Annapurna Conservation Area)	Online — epermit.ntnc.org.np · or EP counters in Pokhara / Kathmandu	NPR 1,000 / NPR 3,000 double at checkposts	Manang + Lower Mustang
Dhorpatan Reserve entry (DNPWC)	DNPWC Kathmandu, Baglung district office, or the warden at Dhorpatan	~NPR 500–1,500 verify	Dhorpatan — separate permit, ACAP does not cover it
TIMS card	tims.ntb.gov.np, or NTB Pokhara / Kathmandu	Free / nominal for Indians	Skipped — trekkers' document. See the note below
Upper Mustang (Lo Manthang) RAP	Immigration, Kathmandu / Pokhara	USD 500 / 10 days	Skipped — needs a licensed guide + 2 people minimum

ACAP is required for everyone entering the area, including riders — it is an area permit, not a trekking permit. It is checked at Dharapani, Chame, Manang, Ghasa, Jomsom and Kagbeni. Bring your passport: Voter ID is enough to enter Nepal, but permit counters are built around passport numbers and riders have been turned away without one.

Do this first Buy ACAP online before you leave India

NTNC runs a working e-permit portal. Doing it from home is half the price, immune to Dashain closures, and removes the single biggest "turned back at a checkpost" risk in the plan.

Go to epermit.ntnc.org.np — a subdomain of NTNC, the body that actually manages ACAP, linked from the ntnc.org.np navigation. Use no other site. Plenty of resellers rank higher on search and charge inflated "processing fees".
Choose Online Payment, select ACAP, and set nationality to Indian — the SAARC rate applies automatically, no in-person proof needed.
Both riders can go on one application (up to 5 people). A passport photo upload is mandatory for online payment (max 1 MB).
Pay by Visa or Mastercard: NPR 1,000 + 2.9% gateway ≈ NPR 1,029 (~₹645) each.
The permit arrives by email. Print two copies each and save it offline on both phones — do not rely on a phone screen at a remote checkpost with no signal.
Lost the email? Reprint any time at epermit.ntnc.org.np/application/print-permit using passport number + date of birth.

Careful Why not just buy it at Besisahar

Checkpost permits cost double — NPR 2,000 instead of NPR 1,000. This is stated policy on the NTNC portal.
NTNC lists only Kathmandu and Pokhara as full EP Counters. Whether Besisahar counts as a counter or a checkpost is unclear — assume the worse, more expensive case.
Physical counters close for Dashain and are cash only. You are riding through exactly that window.

Verify The one call still worth making

DNPWC, Kathmandu — confirm the Dhorpatan non-hunting entry permit: current fee, and whether Baglung can issue it. There is no online option for this one, and it remains the biggest unknown in the plan. Do not count on the warden's office at Dhorpatan being staffed — being turned back after the hardest day of the trip would be brutal.
Backup contact for ACAP questions: NTNC EP Counter, Pokhara — 061-453376.

On TIMS: it is a trekkers' document and is not officially required to ride the road. A few riders have reported being asked for it at Dharapani or Chame. Since you are skipping Pokhara you are accepting that small risk — it is very likely fine, and ACAP plus a polite conversation has resolved it for others. The 2023 mandatory-guide rule applies to trekkers on foot only and does not affect you.

Nepal's official permit websites (NTB, DNPWC, Immigration) were dead, empty or hijacked when checked, so published fees are unreliable. Treat every number here as an estimate until confirmed by phone. Offices are cash-only — carry NPR.

The two bikes

Hero XPulse 200Ideal

21"/18" spoked wheels, 220 mm clearance, ~154 kg — this is the right tool for Dhorpatan.
Weak spots: chain & sprocket, rear suspension linkage, and the soft skid plate. Carry a spare clutch cable and a master link.
Low power at 3,500 m+ — expect a ~25–30% power drop. Ride a gear lower, keep revs up.
Fit a proper metal bash plate and handguards before leaving.

Triumph Scrambler 400 XWatch out

~185 kg wet, 19"/17" wheels, 195 mm clearance, road-biased tyres. Fine on tarmac and gravel, hard work in loose river-bed sections.
Tyres are the #1 issue. Fit dual-sport rubber (e.g. Mitas E-07, TKC70) before the trip — stock tyres on wet clay in Dhorpatan will not be fun.
Tubeless, so carry a plug kit — a puncture in Nepal's hills is a lot easier to fix than on the XPulse's tubes.
No Triumph service anywhere on this route. Carry a spare clutch/brake lever, front brake pads and an oil filter.
Switch off traction control on loose surfaces; ABS is not switchable at the rear on all trims — brake gently on gravel descents.

Pace & pairing

The XPulse will be faster on the rough climbs; the Scrambler will be faster and far more comfortable on the Terai and Beni highways. Agree on regroup points rather than riding nose-to-tail, and never let the gap exceed one checkpost. Carry one tow strap.

Fuel & range

XPulse: 13 L, ~350 km. Scrambler 400 X: 13 L, ~350 km. Both are fine if you top up at every last-chance pump.

Last reliable pump	Next pump	Gap	Note
Besisahar	Chame (small / unreliable)	~80 km	Fill full at Besisahar. Bottled petrol in Chame & Manang at a premium.
Chame	Manang	~30 km	Carry 5 L spare for the Tilicho / Ice Lake side trips.
Beni	Jomsom	~75 km	Ghasa, Tukuche and Marpha have bottle sellers only — Marpha has no pump, so top up in Jomsom on the Muktinath run.
Burtibang	Dhorpatan	~75 km	Critical. Fill at Burtibang and carry 5 L each — Dhorpatan has no pump.

Carry two 5 L metal jerrycans (one per bike). Do not use plastic bottles at altitude — they deform and leak.

Altitude plan

You go from ~100 m (Gorakhpur) to 3,800 m at Muktinath and sleep at 3,540 m in Manang. AMS on a motorcycle is dangerous because the symptoms look like ordinary fatigue.

Rules

Sleep no more than 500 m higher than the previous night above 3,000 m.
The Manang rest day (Day 5) is non-negotiable — it is what makes Muktinath safe later.
Muktinath is a day trip from Marpha (2,670 m). Do not sleep up there if either of you feels off.
4–5 L water/day. No alcohol above 2,500 m.

Carry

Diamox (acetazolamide) 125 mg twice daily — start a day before Chame. Test for allergy at home first.
Pulse oximeter (₹1,000). Below 80% SpO2 with a headache = descend.
Dexamethasone as emergency-only, and know when to use it.
Ibuprofen, ORS, Domperidone, broad-spectrum antibiotic, Betadine, crepe bandage.

Packing

Riding gear

Full-face or ADV helmet with a clear + tinted visor
Armoured jacket with a thermal liner, and a rain shell
Riding gloves (2 pairs — one waterproof) and winter inners
Riding boots, ankle protection non-negotiable
Knee guards, balaclava, neck buff, quality sunglasses

Cold & sleep

Thermals (2 sets), fleece, down jacket — Manang and Dhorpatan drop below freezing at night
Sleeping bag rated to −5 °C (Dhorpatan lodges have thin blankets)
Woollen socks, beanie, hand warmers

Tools & spares

Tubeless puncture plug kit (Scrambler) + tube patch kit and 2 spare tubes (XPulse)
Foot pump or 12 V compressor, tyre levers
Spare clutch and brake levers, clutch cable, chain master link, chain lube
Fuses, bulbs, zip ties, M-seal, duct tape, 2 m tow strap
Basic spanner/allen set, plug spanner, spare spark plugs
Engine oil (1 L each) and an oil filter
You are skipping Pokhara — there is no real workshop between Besisahar and Baglung. Carry accordingly.

Electrics

Power bank (20,000 mAh) — power cuts are common in the hills
USB charger mounted on each bike, spare cables
Headlamp, offline maps (Google Maps + Maps.me Nepal downloaded)
GoPro/action cam plus spare batteries — cold kills them fast

Documents

Passport — carry it. Voter ID is enough to enter Nepal, but permit counters run on passport numbers and riders have been refused without one
ACAP e-permit — two printed copies each, plus offline copies on both phones
Original RC + valid driving licence, plus 8 photocopies of each
8 passport photos each (for ACAP and the Dhorpatan permit)
Travel insurance covering motorcycling and helicopter evacuation
NPR cash — Indian ₹500/₹2000 notes are not accepted in Nepal

Luggage

Soft waterproof saddlebags (hard panniers are a liability on the Dhorpatan track)
One 30 L dry bag on the tail rack, tank bag for documents
Two 5 L metal jerrycans, bungees and cargo net
Keep the load low and forward — especially on the Scrambler

Budget estimate

Per rider, in INR, for 16 days. Nepal is cash-heavy above Beni — carry NPR cash; Indian ₹500/₹2000 notes are not legal in Nepal, only ₹100 and below. Exchange at the border or in Butwal, and draw cash at Narayanghat, Besisahar or Beni — permit offices are cash-only.

Item	Estimate	Notes
Fuel (~1,400 km)	₹4,500	Petrol is ~15–20% costlier in Nepal; bottled fuel in the hills much more
Bhansar / vehicle permit (16 days)	₹8,000	Scales with engine cc — the Scrambler will cost more than the XPulse
Third-party insurance	₹1,000	Bought at the border
ACAP	₹650	NPR 1,029 online incl. gateway fee — double this if bought at a checkpost
Dhorpatan reserve entry	₹1,500	Sort it at Baglung — verify current fee
Stay (15 nights)	₹15,000	₹600–1,500/night; Manang & Dhorpatan basic
Food	₹13,000	₹700–900/day; dal bhat is the best value at altitude
Travel insurance	₹3,000	Must cover motorcycling + heli evac
SIM, misc, entry fees	₹3,000
Emergency reserve	₹15,000	Keep this untouched — repairs, evac, an unplanned night
Total per rider	₹64,650	Add 20% contingency

Before you leave

4 weeks out

Buy ACAP online at epermit.ntnc.org.np — half the checkpost price, and immune to Dashain closures. Print two copies each
Call DNPWC Kathmandu about the Dhorpatan permit — fee, and whether Baglung can issue it
Fit dual-sport tyres to the Scrambler — order early, they may need sourcing
Full service both bikes: valve clearance, coolant, brake fluid, fork oil
Fit a metal bash plate and handguards to the XPulse
Get passports if you don't have them, and buy motorcycling-inclusive travel insurance

2 weeks out

New chain and sprockets on the XPulse if the old set is past 15,000 km
New tyres fitted and scrubbed in on both bikes
Test-fit all luggage and do a 200 km loaded shakedown ride
Test Diamox for allergic reaction
Download offline maps for the whole route, including the Dhorpatan track

Week of

Check Nepal Dept. of Roads notices for the Mugling–Narayanghat corridor
Photocopies ×8, passport photos ×8 each
Withdraw INR cash in ₹100 notes for exchange
Photograph both bikes from all sides with the odometer visible
Share the itinerary with family and agree on a daily check-in time

Honest risks

Landslides. By mid-October the monsoon damage is normally cleared, but the Mugling corridor on Day 2 is the exception. Check locally at Narayanghat, Besisahar and Beni before committing to each leg.
Dhorpatan is the crux. ~75 km from Burtibang taking 5–7 hours, river crossings, no fuel, patchy phone signal, very basic lodges. Do not attempt it solo or in rain.
Kali Gandaki wind. Jomsom–Kagbeni gets 50–60 km/h headwinds from ~11 am. Be turned around by then.
Scrambler weight. If it drops in a river crossing, two people are needed to pick it up. Ride crossings one at a time with the other spotting.
No workshop on route. Skipping Pokhara means there is no real mechanic between Besisahar and Baglung, and no Triumph service at all. Both bikes must leave home fully sorted.
Rescue. Nepal Tourist Police 1144. Helicopter evacuation from Manang/Jomsom costs USD 2,500–5,000 — buy travel insurance covering motorcycling and evacuation to 4,000 m.
Connectivity. Buy an Ncell + NTC SIM in Butwal. NTC has better coverage in Manang and Dhorpatan.